2017 - Biking and Hiking Driftless Wisconson

Driftless Wisconsin.... what the heck is that?? The Driftless Area (or Paleozoic Plateau) is a region in the American Midwest noted mainly for its deeply carved river valleys. While primarily in southwestern Wisconsin, it includes areas of southeastern Minnesota, northeastern Iowa and extreme northwestern Illinois. Ok, so what does that have to do with biking and hiking?

Day One - Biking the Driftless Area

It has been decades since the last time I rode the Sparta to Elroy Bike Trail, in SW Wisconsin. This seemed like a good time to ride it again. In 1965 Wisconsin pioneered one of the most successful and unique recreational endeavors ever attempted. Just one year after the last train used the railroad line from Sparta to Elroy, the old Conservation Department purchased the right-of-way for $12,000 and began the development of Wisconsin's the nations first railroad trail.  From this simple beginning, the Elroy-Sparta State Park Trail has grown into a nationally famous bikeway whose annual visitor attendance averages over 60,000 patrons a year.

Having the itch to go riding, I planned a two day trip to SW Wisconsin, planning to ride the complete trail (32 miles) from one end to the other, and back the 1st day, and then, depending on how I felt, ride one of the other trails connected to the Sparta to Elroy Trail - "The 400" or "The LaCrosse River Trail". Or, if the ol' legs are telling me no more riding, I'll check out a couple of Wisconsin's State Parks for some hiking along the Mississippi River.

The drive from Waterloo, IA to Sparta was about three hours. With my early start (left home at 5:00am), I was at the Sparta Depot by 8:30 (had to stop at McDonalds for a energy boost - Sausage Egg McMuffin with orange juice). After purchasing my daily trail pass ($5), I unloaded and assembled my bike, and loaded up the back pack.

A storm front had passed thru the night before, so the weather was a bit unsettled. Temperatures in the mid-fifties, spotty rain sprinkles, and gusty NW winds (15-25 mph). Hah, I planned this right -riding from Sparta to Elroy(NW to SE). So off I went, with the wind at my back. This trail features three train tunnels, with the longest being 3/4 of a mile long. I couldn't recall how far a ride it was to the 1st tunnel, so the anticipation provided motivation to "pedal hard".

At approximately four miles, I could feel the grade continually increase, signalling the climb to the 1st tunnel. It was approximately nine miles when I rounded a curve to see the entrance to the 1st tunnel. The trail requires bikers to walk their bikes thru the tunnels due to the darkness, and typically wet conditions. As I approached the entrance, the ground became wet and muddy. Water was readily flowing from the tunnel. Assuming it was just because it was the entrance, and once I got into the tunnel the water would be confined to the side channels, I continued into the tunnel.... After stepping across rocks to avoid the water, I finally came to the realization that the 2-3 inches of water continued on well into the tunnel. Knowing I would have another 53 miles to go, I decided that walking in the water, and completely soaking my shoes and soaks was not a good plan. Time to look for an alternate route around the tunnel.

I headed back down the rail to a road crossing, and began the steep, winding climb up the hiway. After about a 1/2 mile, and the top of the hill nowhere in sight, it was time to go to alternate #2 - head back to Sparta, drive to Elroy and tackle the trail from the opposite end.

Remember that wind I had at my back?? Yep.. the easy 7 mile ride became a bit harder. Along the way, I passed probably 8-10 riders heading toward the tunnel. I wander what their "alternate plan" was!

The car ride to Elroy took approximately an hour. Unloading my bike at the Elroy Train Depot, I took off. Yes, the wind was STILL gusting from the NW, and so the easy ride out of Elroy was not as easy. The trail passed thru mostly open landscape for the 1st 6 miles, passing by Glendale and thru Kendall. The towns along the trail have done a great job to provide resting spots, restrooms, and even sights to checkout while grabbing something to eat/drink. Of course, I soldiered on, wanting to complete my goal to ride the entire trail and back.

After passing thru Kendall, the trail incline increased as the landscape transitioned back to the wooded hillside. It was 4 miles from Kendall when the 3rd tunnel of the trail came into sight. My legs were welcoming the "walk your bike thru the tunnel" rule. The only signs of water in the tunnel was along the channels on either side of the roadbed. Ahh.... much better! After digging the flashlight out of my backpack, I headed into the 1/4 mile long darkness. It was like the cartoons you remember when you were little. Complete darkness, with this small dot of light in the distance. As you walked in the cool, dark dampness, you could hear the water dripping from the walls and ceiling... eerie but really neat!

Exiting from the opposite end, I hopped on my bike, and headed off for the next leg of the ride. I knew it was downhill ("what goes up, must come down"), so I made great time... rather than the 9-10 MPH up to the tunnel, the speedometer was flashing 15-16 MPH. The downhill continued to the next town - Wilton. Located 16 miles from Elroy, and the mid-point of the Trail, I knew next (middle) tunnel couldn't be far. Sure enough, the grade of the trail increased, and continued for the next 2-1/2 miles. By now, between the wind and increased grade, the legs were beginning to "feel it". Finally, at 18 miles, the middle tunnel of the trail appeared. Like the previous tunnel, it felt good to stretch the legs (and butt) while walking thru the tunnel. On the opposite side, it was time for a nutrition break, grabbing a protein bar and a couple Slim Jims out of my backpack.

Dilemma time... Do I continue on for the remaining 4 miles to where I turned around at the 1st tunnel, successfully riding the complete trail, before turning around and heading back to Elroy (22 miles, for a total of 64 miles)? Or, do I turn around now, and ride the 18 miles back (endind up with 56 miles)? My legs voted to head back..... I remembered the hard areas and the "downhill" areas from the ride out. And, wind at my back... well, what was left of the wind.

As you can see from the image, the pace returning was not nearly that as the ride out. 3 hours and 53 minutes after departing Elroy, and approximately 7 hours after arriving in Sparta, I concluded my Sparta to Elroy Bike Trail adventure. My only regret was not being able to pass thru the 1st tunnel. But knowing the work it took to complete the rest of the ride, it was MUCH better doing it with dry socks.. and shoes!

Day 2 - Hiking the Driftless Area

After the 56 miles of bike riding Friday, my legs and butt said it was time to hike. So Thursday night was spent checking out Google Maps for some hiking trails in SW Wisconsin. The 1st hike would be in the Hixon State Forest. Once again, the benefits of getting up early stood out, when I stopped at Grandad Bluff Lookout. Fog was hanging over the Mississippi River and LaCrosse. As I left the Bluff, a doe stood munching on grass at the Park entrance.

From here, it was on to the Hixon Forest hiking trails, near the National Weather Service Radar Dome. The area was all set up for what appeared to be mountain biking trail races. Fortunately, there was only one other car in the parking lot, so I headed out on the trails to get my hike in before the bikers arrived. The trails, while traversing along the side of the bluffs, were easy and enjoyable. However, when I left the marked mountain biking trail section, the trails began the downward hike. What was once a wide trail, now had transformed into an exercise in rock and root climbing. Of course, the downhill was easy. Now, the uphill.... well, like I said earlier, "what goes up (down) must come down (up)".. Suffice to say, at the end of my 2.9 mile hike, my shirt was nice and damp! Hey, its not a good workout without a little sweat, right?

Once I packed up and pulled out of the parking lot, I was seriously ready to "call it a day", and begin the ride back to Waterloo. However, on the drive to Prairie du Chien, after some nourishment, I decided to head to Wyalusing State Park, South of Prairie du Chien, and do a little trail exploration. 

Upon arriving, I wandered thru the camping area, FULL of travel trailers, tents and alot of people. From there, I opted to take trails which traversed along the side of the bluffs overlooking the Wisconsin and Mississippi Rivers. The 1st trails, Old Wagon Road Trail & Bluff Trail, gave great views of the Wisconsin River. The trail ended at Signal Point, Treasure Cave, and Point Lookout.

From here, I joined the Sentinel Ridge Trail, which ran along the bluff side overlooking the Mississippi River. This had some great views of the River and of Prairie du Chien, as well as some sites of the Passenger Pigeon Monument and the Bear Effigy Mounds in the shape of conical and linear mounds appeared. It is unclear as to what there purpose may have been. Mound Builders constructed mounds in the shape of animals.  The one way 1.8 mile trail generally follows the top of the bluff, with a steep 1/2 mile downhill to the boat landing on the Mississippi River. I was done with the hill climbing, so at the top of the downhill, it was time to head back. 

At the car, it was time to change shirts. What started out as a 58 deg morning was now in the low 70's. A shirt change was required after this last 4 mile hike. 

What trip to Prairie du Chien would be complete with out a stop at Cabella's. As with most visits, this trip ended up only the purchase of  and $8 "Cabella's" baseball cap. 

One more stop before turning West to Waterloo - Diamond Joe Casino. What a great way to end the trip.... up $10!

These biking/hiking adventures are so refreshing for the mind, and of course, great for my physical wellness. Yes, the stamina and determination to go to the extremes ( the extra 8 miles on the bike ride, and taking on the steep 1/2 mile hill on the end of the Sentinel Ridge Trail) have waned a bit, but I always feel better for taking these trips. 

This Fall will be the continuation of my newest goal - complete the 550 mile North Country Trail across the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Hopefully, my health and well being will stay strong, as it will take "a few years" to complete!