Wednesday, August 14, 2013

2013-Exploring the Black Hills of South Dakota

The Summer of 2013 found my Midwest travel in a new area -the Black Hills area of South Dakota. This hidden gem of the Upper Midwest is often missed in vacation plans due to its location in the SW corner of South Dakota. However, once here, the sights and activities available could make for a complete week of enjoyment.




Our Summer 2013 Dakotas Trip included the following plans:
Day 1 - Waterloo to Deadwood
The trip across Western Iowa, and South Dakota took over 11 hours, with the sights consisting of those you typically see in the Great Plains. Opting to not take the Interstate hi-ways from Sioux City to Rapid City, we enjoyed the sights of rolling plains, with long straight roads, and smaller communities every 15-25 miles. Surprisingly, this drive was relaxing and enjoyable to see (and imagine) life "on the plains" now, as well as when the settlers traveled here for the 1st time. 


Deadwood, SD was our home base while exploring the area. The Bullock Hotel is in the heart of Main St. and still has the rustic charm of the olden days, but with remodeled rooms and lobby. It turned out to be a great accommodation for our stay. Deadwood still has the charm of an old West town, but has embraced the casino industry, with slot machines found all throughout the town. Of course, the Deadwood shops all accommodate the tourists. You can get just about any souvenirs and t-shirt you can imagine... and with the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally only a few days away, you could also get some pretty eye opening apparel as well!

We finished our 1st day of vacation taking in a "gunfight on Main Street." Not the most exciting attraction in town, but hey, "when in Deadwood...."


Day 2 - 1880s' Train and The Badlands
Day 2 started early with an hour drive to Hill City, We decided to start the day with a hearty breakfast at the Hill City Cafe. Some good local cookin' and a couple cups of coffee, and we were ready to go.

I had my doubts about the 1880's Train Ride, whether it was worth the time and money - it was! We boarded the 10:00am ride to Keystone and back. It was a 2-1/2 hours journey through the hills and valleys of this old mining area. We chose the open air cars, and with a clear blue sky and temps in the low 70's, it was a perfect way to start our exploration of the Badlands. TIP: if you plan on taking this train ride, book an early morning or evening ride. The temperatures during the day can get hot!

After finishing the train ride, it was time to take the drive to the Badlands Scenic Byway. As we headed out of town, we came upon the Prairie Berry Winery, home of Red Ass Rhubarb wine. Just had to stop and check this out. Situated just outside Hill City, this winery also had a great view of the Black Hills countryside from their patio. 




From the winery, we headed east to the Badlands. The Badlands Scenic Byway provides a driving loop thru the hills and valleys of the Badlands. The drive from Hill City was about an hour. But once we came upon the Badlands National Park, the sights were amazing. The park has many spots to pull off the road, and get out to enjoy the view. Additionally, there are hiking trails the more adventurous can take. With the afternoon temperatures approaching 90, we opted to skip the hikes... for now. 




The Scenic Byway loop ended near the town of Wall, SD, home to the famous Wall Drug. No trip to this area would be complete without a stop to check it out. The town has a population of less than 800, but the main street with Wall Drug encompasses a full city block, and then some!

By now it was 5:30, and time to make the journey back to Deadwood, but with a stop in Rapid City for dinner. We chose the Firehouse Brewing Company, located in the heart of downtown Rapid City. Its situated in the old Rapid City Firehouse, built in 1915. Great burgers and beer here! I should also note that this area of downtown Rapid City was bustling. Several great restaurants and many interesting stores and boutiques along Main Street. With an hour drive back to Deadwood, we opted to head back to the hotel and pass on the Rapid City shopping (I lucked out there!).

Our route back to Deadwood took us past the turnoff to Sturgis, SD, home of the annual motorcycle rally (which the start was only 3 days away). We had to go check it out. Although it was 7:30 at nite, vendors were hard at work, setting up, motorcyclists were checking out the bars and souvenir stands, and people like us were lining main street, taking in the site. It was hard to comprehend what this same street would look like in a few more days (see photo from the 2013 Rally, taken a couple days afer our visit).

(Click Here to see more photos of Day 2)


Day 3 - "The Monuments" Day
Day 3 started with a early morning drive to Custer State Park. About an hour from Deadwood, the
drive took us thru the town of Custer, and past Stockade Lake. The morning view of the lake was spectacular. 

Hiway 16A, which is also referred to as the "Wildlife Loop", took us past the lake, and down a winding wooded area. Rounding one corner we came upon several cars stopped in the middle of the road... surrounded by buffalo. Some were on the road looking at the cars, and many others were grazing in a grassy spot amongst the hills. It was a pretty amazing sight (and some
interesting sounds). 
The road finally cleared by County workers, we continued on.


The wooded, hilly terrain turned into an expansive, rolling prairie. For the many motorcyclists who were also on the drive, it was an ideal touring road. Unfortunately, we were unable to spot any more wildlife until we were almost out of the plains. That's when we came upon the "begging burros". And that they were. Several sightseers were out amongst the burros, petting and feeding the animals. As we approached them, they leisurely wandered up to our car, looking for handouts (don't think they'd enjoy the coffee were had in the car).
I mentioned the motorcyclists who were also driving thru the park. On one of the final stretches of road within the park, where there are VERY tight hairpin turns, we came across a motorcyclist down, on the side of the road, with several people attending to him. Upon leaving the park we asked the attendant about it, and she indicated that unfortunately, that happens quite frequently.
From Custer State Park, we headed back West to check out the Crazy Horse Monument. The monument is easily seen as you drive North of Custer. We started the visit by watching the movie in the Welcome Center, which shares the history of the Monument, and the goals to continue the progress on the world’s largest mountain sculpture, and carving a memorial to the spirit of legendary Lakota leader Crazy Horse and his culture. 
Some amazing facts about the size of the Crazy Horse monument - Unlike Mount Rushmore, which is just a relief sculpture, Crazy Horse will be fully three-dimensional, being made of the entire mountain. And in size comparison, Mount Rushmore would be able to fit on Crazy Horse's outstretched forearm. A five-room house will be able to fit inside a nostril the warrior's stead. It will be taller than the Washington Monument and nearly twice as big as the Statue of Liberty. To date, about 8 1/2 million tons of granite have removed to make the sculpture, sometimes employing as many as 100 people.

I won't go into the details about the history of the monument and its construction, other than to say the effort is totally funded with donations. They have chosen to continue to build it with the original vision, despite efforts by the Federal Government to offer financial assistance.


It was time to move on to Mount Rushmore. You've seen images of it a million times on tv, in books, and in movies. But the sight of the Monument as you walk in the entrance is incredible. I have to say the US Park Service has constructed a wonderful memorial, that blends right in to the surroundings, providing spectacular views of the monument. We chose to take the "Audio Tour" (Highly recommended) which allows to listen to a recorded guide, incorporating narration, music, interviews, sound effects and historic recordings. There are over 30 locations along "The Presidential Trail"  where you can listen and learn about the history of the view you see.
After leaving the Mount Rushmore Memorial, we headed to Sylvan Lake (located near Harney Peak). This allowed us to drive the famous "Needles Hiway", a narrow two lane road that curves and winds through 14 miles of magnificent rock formations called 'needles.' Along with some beautiful views, you also experience two "unique" tunnels.


Sylvan Lake was created in 1881 when Theodore Reder built a dam across Sunday Gulch. It offers picnic areas, rock climbing, small rental boats, swimming, and hiking trails. It is also popular as a starting point for excursions to Harney Peak and The Needles. This was another one of those amazing photo opportunities we found while in the Black Hill (and a great hike)!


Time to head back to Deadwood for the evening, but not before grabbing a bite to eat in Hill City. By now, the town was swarming with motorcyclists, but we were able to grab a burger at the Slate Creek Grille.

Arriving back at the Bullock hotel for our last evening, we decided to end the visit by playing some slots and enjoying their "Foreign Beer Thursdays" special. Things were quiet in the lobby, and even had the bartender providing Sue "advice" on her slot machine... and wouldn't you know it, she ended up ahead! A good time to call it a night!

(Click Here to see more photos of Day 3)

Day 4 - Devils' Tower and Fargo
Our final tourist stop in the Black Hills area was Devil's Tower (Wyoming)  After checking out of the Bullock Hotel we headed West for approximately an hour to the National Monumnent. Being the "earlybirds", we were able to view Devil's Tower with its top in the clouds. This is another amazing sight of nature. You cannot comprehend the enormity and structure until you are standing at the base. The National Park Service also runs this attraction, and has provided a paved pathway around the base (~ 1.3 miles). While hiking the trail you can clearly see the hexagonal columns in the Tower. 
Geologists cannot agree on exactly how the tower was formed. In 1907, scientists Darton and O'Harra decided that Devils Tower must be an eroded remnant of a laccolith. A laccolith is a large mass of igneous rock which is intruded through sedimentary rock beds without reaching the surface, but makes a rounded bulge in the sedimentary layers above.
Other theories suggest that Devils Tower is a volcanic plug or that it is the neck of an extinct volcano (Some pyroclastic material of the same age as Devils Tower has been identified elsewhere in Wyoming). The igneous material in the Tower intruded about 40.5 million years ago. (OK, enough geology for the Trip!)

As we finished our hike, the Park was filling up fast (3 tour busses had arrived). Time head out on the next part of our journey - the drive to Fargo, ND.

Although not on the direct route back to Waterloo, we wanted to experience the vast plains of Western South and North Dakota, and briefly visit the city that the movie "Fargo" was based upon.

Our drive followed Hiway 85 North thru the Western end of both states. The sights were few and far between, but the vastness of this rangeland was impressive. Hundreds of rolled hay bales literally everywhere (even in the ditches of the hiway) along the route. Herds of cattle also appeared along the route. Given the lack of farmsteads and towns, I suspect these rolls of hay were the cattles' food source for a Winter in "The Dakotas".

The drive was approximately 10 hours, arriving in Fargo around 6:30pm. Our hotel was located on the West side of the city, and given the time of day, we opted for dinner and a couple beers to unwind from the long day on the road. But before wrapping up the day, here's some info about Fargo.

Fargo is a core city of the Fargo-Moorhead metropolitan area. Fargo sits on the western bank of the Red River of the North in a flat geographic region known as the Red River Valley, which is some of the richest land in the world for agricultural uses. Interesting fact - The Red flows northward, which means melting snow and river ice, as well as runoff from its tributaries, often create ice dams, which cause the river to overflow. With the flat Red River Valley terrain, flooding is frequent. The Red River flows through the heart of the metro area, which does not have flood protection in place.

The Fargo-Moorehead area is also home to several colleges. North Dakota State University (NDSU), Concordia College, Minnesota State University-Moorehead, Rasmussen College, and University of Mary all have campus' in the Metro area. Finally, as we travelled thru the area, it was clear that Fargo-Moorehead has been and continues to be a major transportation hub - Interstate Hiways I-29 and I-94, the BNSF Railway & Amtrak, and Hector International Airport.

(Click Here to see more photos of Day 4)

Day 5 - Leech Lake & Minneapolis
Day 5 started with a drive across the Northern portion of Minnesota to Walker, MN and the Leech Lake vacation area. We passed thru several smaller communities (Detroit Lakes, Park Rapids- Start of the Mississippi River) which serve the tourists and residents of many lakes and resorts in Northern Minnesota.

Walker, MN is located on the southwest corner of Leech Lake, the third largest lake in Minnesota. The town has become a destination for tourists, featuring several boutique shops, four hotels (including Chase on the Lake), and outfitters to provide for all your outdoor sporting needs. The area is located mainly within the Leech Lake Indian Reservation, and completely within the Chippewa National Forest.

As is custom during our travels, we always check out area casinos. Northern Lights Hotel and Casino is just outside Walker, and provided us with an hour of entertainment. Fortunately, my wife came out as a winner. Unfortunately, she didn't win enough to pay for all the purchases she made in Downtown Walker!

From Walker, our travels took us Southeast, passing around Mille Lacs Lake (Minnesota's second larges inland lake), and home to our 2nd casino stop of the day at Grand Casino Mille Lacs. Our luck continued, with us also leaving this casino ahead.

Another hour and a half drive to Minneapolis, and our hotel - Le Bourget Aero Suites. Located in Bloomington, MN, the Le Bourget Aero Suites is a unique European style hotel situated near the I-494 and I-35W interchange, with very modern rooms, at a very reasonable price. After checking in we made a stop at Joe Senser's Sports Theater Restaurant for dinner and drinks. On the way back to the hotel we found a Trader Joe's Neighborhood Grocery Store. Having never been in a Trader Joe's, we stopped to check it out. We picked up some dessert (and some good chuckles from "people watching") and headed back to the hotel.

Day 5 is in the books!

Day 6 - Minneapolis to Waterloo
The drive from Minneapolis to Waterloo is normally a 3-1/2 hour drive following I-35S and Hiway 20E. We opted to follow the old Hiway 218 from Austin, MN, thru St. Ansgar, Osage, and Nashua. There's something enjoyable about traveling the countryside, and passing thru the small towns that makes you appreciate life in the Midwest. 

As with any vacation, the last day is mostly about getting home, and thinking about getting back into the daily grind. Our trip to the Black Hills, the Dakotas, and Northern Minnesota was a great getaway. 
The natural sights and historic locations are a "must see" for anyone who enjoys exploring all that the United States have to offer.